Up against the divide: Cajatambo to Tarma

Cold. Tired. Uninspired. Bored? The last week of riding was my toughest mentally and physically yet. For three days I felt like I was on the world’s largest yo-yo – ascending huge climbs, only to drop a long way down again. I had one particularly amazing day that renewed my spirits, but the three after … Continue reading Up against the divide: Cajatambo to Tarma

Into the land of glaciers: Huaraz to Cajatambo

"Is it worth it?" It's a familiar question I ask myself often. Is riding close up to glaciers it worth it, even if it means riding through snow and rain and wind and cold afterward? Is pushing my loaded bike up and over multiple passes more than 4,500-metres in altitude worth it for the expansive … Continue reading Into the land of glaciers: Huaraz to Cajatambo

The Cordillera Blanca: Caraz to Huaraz

“Why aren’t you smiling? Why aren’t you happy?” I had just collapsed after cresting a 4,750 metre high pass in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca following an afternoon and morning of pushing my bike up through sopping wet meadows, fast-flowing creeks, steep rocky slopes, rain and snow. There was Iohan, already at the top, already eager to … Continue reading The Cordillera Blanca: Caraz to Huaraz

El Silencio – Huamachuco to Caraz

"El Silencio" - what Peruvians call the high altitude regions of the country where few venture and only the hardiest make a living. It's a land of towering mountains, grassy valleys, azure lakes, hardscrabble herders and their flocks, and, unfortunately, massive mines that scar an otherwise beautiful landscape. I had seen pictures of these landscapes … Continue reading El Silencio – Huamachuco to Caraz

To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

One of the reasons bike touring suits me is I am generally very comfortable with solitude. While I do enjoy social interactions, I also have no issues spending days at a time alone, with little in the way of conversation with other people. I do enjoy my time in cities, staying at hostels and meeting … Continue reading To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

Reflections on the road so far

2017 was a momentous year for me. I remember the day I walked into my publisher's office and told her I was leaving the paper. Actually, I don't remember the exact day - I forget if it was a Monday or Tuesday, or if it was the last week of May or first week of … Continue reading Reflections on the road so far

Jungle boogie: Banos to Cuenca

After several days straight of cold, gloomy and wet weather, I was starting to feel a little grim. I knew it was rainy season, but up until this point, I'd been lucky with the weather. But after lots of climbing and little views from Quilotoa to Chimborazo, I decided to follow through on an idea … Continue reading Jungle boogie: Banos to Cuenca