El Silencio – Huamachuco to Caraz

"El Silencio" - what Peruvians call the high altitude regions of the country where few venture and only the hardiest make a living. It's a land of towering mountains, grassy valleys, azure lakes, hardscrabble herders and their flocks, and, unfortunately, massive mines that scar an otherwise beautiful landscape. I had seen pictures of these landscapes … Continue reading El Silencio – Huamachuco to Caraz

A slice of city life: Cajamarca to Huamachuco

My journey has been about the roads. Paved or unpaved, they connect me from one city to another, through rural areas and towns seldom visited by outsiders. One of the things I've loved most about this trip is finding myself in these cities, with their vibrant markets, beautiful squares and mix of colonial and pre-colonial … Continue reading A slice of city life: Cajamarca to Huamachuco

Back to the mountains: Chachapoyas to Cajamarca

What is it about the mountains that make me feel so at home? I didn't grow up in the mountains, though I did spend many winter days skiing as a kid. It wasn't until I was 29 that I exchanged city living for a life amongst the peaks of British Columbia. What is it about … Continue reading Back to the mountains: Chachapoyas to Cajamarca

To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

One of the reasons bike touring suits me is I am generally very comfortable with solitude. While I do enjoy social interactions, I also have no issues spending days at a time alone, with little in the way of conversation with other people. I do enjoy my time in cities, staying at hostels and meeting … Continue reading To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

Reflections on the road so far

2017 was a momentous year for me. I remember the day I walked into my publisher's office and told her I was leaving the paper. Actually, I don't remember the exact day - I forget if it was a Monday or Tuesday, or if it was the last week of May or first week of … Continue reading Reflections on the road so far

Paramo paradise: Cuenca to Santa Isabel

If there's one thing I loved most about riding in Ecuador, it was the wide open spaces. Colombia featured lots of ups and downs through mountainous farmland, but I experienced little in the way of open mountain landscapes. Entering Ecuador, I witnessed that right away as I climbed into El Angel Ecological Reserve. That continued … Continue reading Paramo paradise: Cuenca to Santa Isabel

Jungle boogie: Banos to Cuenca

After several days straight of cold, gloomy and wet weather, I was starting to feel a little grim. I knew it was rainy season, but up until this point, I'd been lucky with the weather. But after lots of climbing and little views from Quilotoa to Chimborazo, I decided to follow through on an idea … Continue reading Jungle boogie: Banos to Cuenca