El Silencio – Huamachuco to Caraz

"El Silencio" - what Peruvians call the high altitude regions of the country where few venture and only the hardiest make a living. It's a land of towering mountains, grassy valleys, azure lakes, hardscrabble herders and their flocks, and, unfortunately, massive mines that scar an otherwise beautiful landscape. I had seen pictures of these landscapes … Continue reading El Silencio – Huamachuco to Caraz

To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

One of the reasons bike touring suits me is I am generally very comfortable with solitude. While I do enjoy social interactions, I also have no issues spending days at a time alone, with little in the way of conversation with other people. I do enjoy my time in cities, staying at hostels and meeting … Continue reading To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

From sea level to 5,000 metres: Quito to Cotopaxi

I was keen to leave the Galapagos and return to the mountains and my bike. But first, I had some unfinished business to take care of in Quito before leaving on the second stage of my adventure through the Andes. I landed at the airport and headed straight into Quito instead of dropping by the … Continue reading From sea level to 5,000 metres: Quito to Cotopaxi

Crossing borders and changing weather: Santiago, Colombia, to El Angel, Ecuador

After six weeks in Colombia, I was eager to move onto Ecuador. Not that there's anything wrong with Colombia - it had exceeded my expectations - but I was eager to experience something different. Every day in Colombia was starting to fell the same, riding up and down endless mountains covered in farms and lush … Continue reading Crossing borders and changing weather: Santiago, Colombia, to El Angel, Ecuador

Stone statues, waterfalls and death trampolines: San Agustin to Santiago

They say it's the rainy season in Colombia and I believe it. Only, until a few days ago, it hadn't affected my trip. I only got stuck riding in a torrential downpour once, and that was on pavement and was mostly downhill. Plus it was pretty hot that day, I was on my way to … Continue reading Stone statues, waterfalls and death trampolines: San Agustin to Santiago

8Salento to Ibague, and how my trip nearly got derailed

The loud rattling took me by surprise. I was used to my gear jostling around as I descended bumpy diet roads, but I'd never heard anything rattling in my spokes. I was having a great descent down to the tiny outpost of Toche, flying past forests of wax palm trees, which are only found in … Continue reading 8Salento to Ibague, and how my trip nearly got derailed

Manizales and the return to dirt

(Note: My laptop won't charge so I'm posting this from my phone. ¬†For some reason the photos are showing up in the wrong order. There may also be some odd auto-corrects I missed.) I've never actually cried tears of joy. The other day, while biking at 4,000 metres in Parque Nacional Nevado del Ruiz, I … Continue reading Manizales and the return to dirt