The final stretch: Tarma to Paracas

Should I stay or should I go? I don't even really like the Clash, but I couldn't think of another song lyric or cliche to encapsulate my mentality the last week of my trip. I was lying in a hotel room in Tarma, a touristy city in the eastern Andes of Peru, battling a nasty … Continue reading The final stretch: Tarma to Paracas

Up against the divide: Cajatambo to Tarma

Cold. Tired. Uninspired. Bored? The last week of riding was my toughest yet mentally and physically. For three days I felt like I was on the world’s largest yo-yo – slogging up huge climbs, only to be greeted by rain and snow and a long drop back down. I had one particularly amazing day that … Continue reading Up against the divide: Cajatambo to Tarma

The Cordillera Blanca: Caraz to Huaraz

“Why aren’t you smiling? Why aren’t you happy?” I had just collapsed after cresting a 4,750 metre high pass in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca following an afternoon and morning of pushing my bike up through sopping wet meadows, fast-flowing creeks, steep rocky slopes, rain and snow. There was Iohan, already at the top, already eager to … Continue reading The Cordillera Blanca: Caraz to Huaraz

A slice of city life: Cajamarca to Huamachuco

My journey has been about the roads. Paved or unpaved, they connect me from one city to another, through rural areas and towns seldom visited by outsiders. One of the things I've loved most about this trip is finding myself in these cities, with their vibrant markets, beautiful squares and mix of colonial and pre-colonial … Continue reading A slice of city life: Cajamarca to Huamachuco

Back to the mountains: Chachapoyas to Cajamarca

What is it about the mountains that make me feel so at home? I didn't grow up in the mountains, though I did spend many winter days skiing as a kid. I spent a summer in Banff when I was 21, but I spent more time then getting drunk than scaling mountains. It wasn't until … Continue reading Back to the mountains: Chachapoyas to Cajamarca