To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

One of the reasons bike touring suits me is I am generally very comfortable with solitude. While I do enjoy social interactions, I also have no issues spending days at a time alone, with little in the way of conversation with other people. I do enjoy my time in cities, staying at hostels and meeting … Continue reading To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora

Reflections on the road so far

2017 was a momentous year for me. I remember the day I walked into my publisher's office and told her I was leaving the paper. Actually, I don't remember the exact day - I forget if it was a Monday or Tuesday, or if it was the last week of May or first week of … Continue reading Reflections on the road so far

Paramo paradise: Cuenca to Santa Isabel

If there's one thing I loved most about riding in Ecuador, it was the wide open spaces. Colombia featured lots of ups and downs through mountainous farmland, but I experienced little in the way of open mountain landscapes. Entering Ecuador, I witnessed that right away as I climbed into El Angel Ecological Reserve. That continued … Continue reading Paramo paradise: Cuenca to Santa Isabel

Jungle boogie: Banos to Cuenca

After several days straight of cold, gloomy and wet weather, I was starting to feel a little grim. I knew it was rainy season, but up until this point, I'd been lucky with the weather. But after lots of climbing and little views from Quilotoa to Chimborazo, I decided to follow through on an idea … Continue reading Jungle boogie: Banos to Cuenca

Out of the highlands: From Salinas to Banos

Forty-seven years ago, an Italian missionary named Father Antonio Polo was sent to the rural Ecuadorian town of Salinas de Guaranda (also de Bolivar, depending on the map) to help build a school. He was there for three months, but decided that wasn't enough to effect real change, so he went back. Salinas was a … Continue reading Out of the highlands: From Salinas to Banos

Relentless beauty, relentless climbs: Lasso to Salinas

Relentless. It's one of my favourite words. I often pre-curse it with the f-word - they just fit so well together. As I rode from my campsite above Angamarca on Wednesday, Nov. 29, to Salinas de Guaranda (or de Bolivar, depending on which source you use), all I could think of was how "fucking relentless" … Continue reading Relentless beauty, relentless climbs: Lasso to Salinas

From sea level to 5,000 metres: Quito to Cotopaxi

I was keen to leave the Galapagos and return to the mountains and my bike. But first, I had some unfinished business to take care of in Quito before leaving on the second stage of my adventure through the Andes. I landed at the airport and headed straight into Quito instead of dropping by the … Continue reading From sea level to 5,000 metres: Quito to Cotopaxi