“Why aren’t you smiling? Why aren’t you happy?” I had just collapsed after cresting a 4,750 metre high pass in […]
El Silencio – Huamachuco to Caraz
“El Silencio” – what Peruvians call the high altitude regions of the country where few venture and only the hardiest […]
A slice of city life: Cajamarca to Huamachuco
My journey has been about the roads. Paved or unpaved, they connect me from one city to another, through rural […]
Back to the mountains: Chachapoyas to Cajamarca
What is it about the mountains that make me feel so at home? I didn’t grow up in the mountains, […]
To the coast with company: Santa Isabel to Mancora
One of the reasons bike touring suits me is I am generally very comfortable with solitude. While I do enjoy […]
Reflections on the road so far
2017 was a momentous year for me. I remember the day I walked into my publisher’s office and told her […]
Paramo paradise: Cuenca to Santa Isabel
If there’s one thing I loved most about riding in Ecuador, it was the wide open spaces. Colombia featured lots […]
Jungle boogie: Banos to Cuenca
After several days straight of cold, gloomy and wet weather, I was starting to feel a little grim. I knew […]
Out of the highlands: From Salinas to Banos
Forty-seven years ago, an Italian missionary named Father Antonio Polo was sent to the rural Ecuadorian town of Salinas de […]
