“Why aren’t you smiling? Why aren’t you happy?” I had just collapsed after cresting a 4,750 metre high pass in […]


“Why aren’t you smiling? Why aren’t you happy?” I had just collapsed after cresting a 4,750 metre high pass in […]

“El Silencio” – what Peruvians call the high altitude regions of the country where few venture and only the hardiest […]

My journey has been about the roads. Paved or unpaved, they connect me from one city to another, through rural […]

What is it about the mountains that make me feel so at home? I didn’t grow up in the mountains, […]

One of the reasons bike touring suits me is I am generally very comfortable with solitude. While I do enjoy […]

2017 was a momentous year for me. I remember the day I walked into my publisher’s office and told her […]

Forty-seven years ago, an Italian missionary named Father Antonio Polo was sent to the rural Ecuadorian town of Salinas de […]

Relentless. It’s one of my favourite words. I often pre-curse it with the f-word – they just fit so well […]

I was keen to leave the Galapagos and return to the mountains and my bike. But first, I had some […]